The beginnings of fashion: Paleolithic eyed needles and the evolution of dress

A team of researchers led by an archaeologist at the University of Sydney are the first to suggest that eyed needles were a new technological innovation used to adorn clothing for social and cultural purposes, marking the major shift from clothes as protection to clothes as an expression of identity.
— Read on phys.org/news/2024-06-fashion-paleolithic-eyed-needles-evolution.html

Approximately 40,000 years ago, a previously unknown group of ancient humans, now called the Ancient North Siberians, inhabited the harsh landscapes of Siberia. This population, genetically distinct from both Western Eurasians and East Asians, was discovered through DNA analysis of two children’s milk teeth found at the Yana Rhinoceros Horn Site in northeastern Siberia, dating back to 31,000 years ago. While not direct ancestors of Native Americans, they were distantly related to the group that later contributed to Native American ancestry. These Ice Age inhabitants likely lived in groups of up to 500 individuals and were part of larger networks with other hunter-gatherer groups, showing no signs of inbreeding. The discovery of the Ancient North Siberians has significantly altered our understanding of human migration and population dynamics in ancient Siberia, revealing a more complex history than previously thought and shedding light on the diverse human populations that once roamed this vast, frigid region.

The invention of eyed needles approximately 40,000 years ago in Siberia marked a significant technological breakthrough that revolutionized clothing production and human culture. These tools, which subsequently appeared in the Caucasus (38,000 years ago), East Asia (30,000 years ago), and Europe (26,000 years ago), enabled a shift from purely functional garments to those with social and cultural significance. More complex to craft than bone awls, eyed needles facilitated fine sewing, allowing for fitted clothing, layered garments, and the attachment of decorative elements like beads. This innovation coincided with the latest Ice Age, providing enhanced thermal protection, but its impact extended far beyond practical needs. The ability to create intricate, adorned clothing became a means of expressing identity and cultural affiliation, ultimately contributing to the formation of larger, more complex societies. By enabling people to adapt to colder climates while maintaining distinct cultural expressions through shared clothing styles and symbols, eyed needles played a crucial role in human migration and social development.